An LED strip is a linear lighting device where multiple miniature LED chips are soldered onto a flexible circuit board. It can be bent freely, cut to length, and often comes with adhesive backing for easy stick-on installation, used for basic lighting, decoration, contour lighting, or ambiance creation.

Yes, LED strips typically have scissors-marked cutting points every few centimeters. Cutting along these points will not damage the remaining LED strips.

However, the cut-off segment cannot work independently; it needs to be re-soldered or connected to a power source using a dedicated connector to light up.

Cutting should be done at positions clearly marked on the LED strip with a "scissors" icon, a cutting line, or specific length indicators. These marks are usually located at the copper foil solder points between every few LED beads. Only by cutting at these designated positions can you ensure that the remaining circuit still works properly and avoid damaging the strip.

LED strips are classified by manufacturing process into bare board (uncoated), sleeved, potted (drip-coated), sprayed, and other types. Not all of them are waterproof; their specific water resistance depends on their IP rating. Bare-board strips (e.g., IP20) are not waterproof and are suitable only for dry indoor environments. Strips that have been drip-coated, sleeved, sprayed, or potted offer varying levels of water protection.

Among common waterproof ratings: IP65 is resistant to rain and splashing, suitable for outdoor use under eaves. IP67 can withstand short-term immersion, suitable for use near pools or fountains. IP68 can be fully submerged and is suitable for underwater lighting in swimming pools, fountains, and similar applications.

Connecting two LED strips mainly involves two methods:

1. Using a dedicated connector (easiest)
This is the most convenient, solder‑free method. Simply purchase a connector that matches the width of your LED strip (e.g., 8mm or 10mm) and the number of pins (e.g., 2‑pin for single color, 4‑pin for RGB). Insert the copper contact pads at the ends of both strips into the two sides of the connector, making sure the metal teeth align with the contacts, then close the lid to lock it in place.

2. Using a soldering iron (most reliable)
If you need a stronger, permanent connection, soldering is the way to go. At the cutting points of the strips, use a soldering iron to solder wires to the positive (+) and negative (-) pads on the ends of both strips. Make sure the solder joints are solid and kept separate from each other to avoid short circuits.